Wave formation, fetch, constructive and destructive waves

Wave Formation

How are waves created?

Waves are created due to the transfer of energy from the wind blowing over the surface of the sea into the water, this does not include tsunamis however, those are formed due ton the underwater plate movement. Waves are formed in a circular orbit in open water. Waves are formed from the top, that is where the wind hits the waves. Some waves in the oceans can travel thousands of miles before reaching land. As the friction slowly increases, the wave's base slows down, this interferes with its circular orbit and the wave becomes more egg shaped. With more friction, the orbit becomes more and more egg shaped causing the top of the wave to move faster. Finally the wave breacks. The stronger the wind, the bigger the wave. This means that the bigger the wave, the more energy is stored in it. This is called the fetch of the wave.
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What is the Fetch?

Fetch, often called the fetch length, is a term for the length of water over which a given wind has blown. This determines the size of the waves and the ammount of energy stored in a wave. The longer the Fetch lenght and the faster the wind, the larger and stronger the wave will be.

What are the types of waves?

There are two types of waves:

  1. Contructive Waves.
  • Bigger swash
  • Smaller, less energy

2. Destructive Waves.
  • Smaller swash
  • Bigger, much more energy than the Constructive wave